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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.